Cosmetics - Research Center
Research Center
 

Beauty & Protection

Cosmetics are intended to make the skin beautiful - they provide care and protection. Along with its pearl-luster pigments and fillers, EMD Chemicals is developing a broad spectrum of skin care ingredients for use in cosmetics.


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EMD Chemicals Inc. is pursuing research in new products and applications at two different locations - Savannah, GA, and Hawthorne, NY. Research efforts are complemented by the resources of external partners, which help us to rapidly translate ideas into innovative products. EMD's Cosmetics Research & Application group works closely with Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany, our parent company, in the development of new products and our R & D department in Japan.

Cosmetic products have a much shorter life cycles and the marketplace changes very rapidly. The market is more trend-driven than those of EMD Chemicals/Merck KGaA's other business units. Our goal is to develop cosmetic ingredients to satisfy customer needs with evidence-driven products, for example antioxidants for skin brightening or even-toning effects, stabilizers for photo-unstable materials such as sunscreens, antioxidants, fragrance, dyes etc. In order to serve the needs of the cosmetic industry, our researchers are looking for and developing new functional ingredients. It takes about two to four years from the discovery of an active substance for it to complete all the necessary hurdles and be ready to go to the market place. EMD Chemicals' Cosmetic Research & Application group support product introductions and provide technical support for customers, solving day to day formulations and product quality issues.

EMD Chemicals/ Rona Cosmetic Business Unit has a wide range of compounds for use in sunscreens to protect the skin against sun damage. Optimal protection of skin requires both UV-B and UV-A filters. Their chemical incompatibility, however, makes these filter often difficult to combine in a cosmetic product. Rona's sol-gel encapsulated UV filters provide the desired solution. In Eusolex® UV-PearlsTM OMC, UV filters are encapsulated in modified silica. This novel sunscreen remains on the top of the skin and is especially suitable for sensitive skin. In order to expand this novel technology platform, researchers in the U.S. and Germany are working on sol-gel encapsulated broad-spectrum sunscreens.

In today's highly regulated cosmetic industry, it is very expensive to obtain approval for a new color additive. In fact, the volume used by the cosmetic industry do not justify the expense required to try to obtain a new one. However, new developments using already approved ingredients offer ways to bring new innovative products in the market. Our scientists have developed unique color and luster special-effect pigments for decorative cosmetics and personal care as well as functional fillers for innovative products. Along with its parent company, Merck KGaA, EMD has been at the forefront of such innovative technology as multi layer interference pigments (Timiron® Splendid pigments), color-travel (Xirona® pigments and pigments based on glass flake-technology(Ronastar® pigments ).

Multi-layer technology has also been used to create green pigment consisting of oxides of titanium, iron, and silicon, but without chromium; all other cosmetically-acceptable inorganic pigments currently on the market must use this heavy metal in order to get that shade. Colorona®Brilliant Green is an example of basic pigment technology applied toward of new pigments for the cosmetic and personal care markets.

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