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Beauty & Protection |
Cosmetics are intended to make the skin beautiful - they provide
care and protection. Along with its pearl-luster pigments and fillers,
EMD Chemicals is developing a broad spectrum of skin care ingredients
for use in cosmetics.

Image credit: Liquidlibrary.com
EMD Chemicals Inc. is pursuing research in new products and applications
at two different locations - Savannah, GA, and Hawthorne, NY. Research
efforts are complemented by the resources of external partners,
which help us to rapidly translate ideas into innovative products.
EMD's Cosmetics Research & Application group works closely with
Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany, our parent company, in the development
of new products and our R & D department in Japan.
Cosmetic products have a much shorter life cycles and the marketplace
changes very rapidly. The market is more trend-driven than those
of EMD Chemicals/Merck KGaA's other business units. Our goal is
to develop cosmetic ingredients to satisfy customer needs with evidence-driven
products, for example antioxidants for skin brightening or even-toning
effects, stabilizers for photo-unstable materials such as sunscreens,
antioxidants, fragrance, dyes etc. In order to serve the needs of
the cosmetic industry, our researchers are looking for and developing
new functional ingredients. It takes about two to four years from
the discovery of an active substance for it to complete all the
necessary hurdles and be ready to go to the market place. EMD Chemicals'
Cosmetic Research & Application group support product introductions
and provide technical support for customers, solving day to day
formulations and product quality issues.
EMD Chemicals/ Rona Cosmetic Business Unit has a wide range of
compounds for use in sunscreens to protect the skin against sun
damage. Optimal protection of skin requires both UV-B and UV-A filters.
Their chemical incompatibility, however, makes these filter often
difficult to combine in a cosmetic product. Rona's sol-gel encapsulated
UV filters provide the desired solution. In
Eusolex®
UV-PearlsTM OMC, UV filters are encapsulated
in modified silica. This novel sunscreen remains on the top of the
skin and is especially suitable for sensitive skin. In order to
expand this novel technology platform, researchers in the U.S. and
Germany are working on sol-gel encapsulated broad-spectrum sunscreens.
In today's highly regulated cosmetic industry, it is very expensive
to obtain approval for a new color additive. In fact, the volume
used by the cosmetic industry do not justify the expense required
to try to obtain a new one. However, new developments using already
approved ingredients offer ways to bring new innovative products
in the market. Our scientists have developed unique
color and luster special-effect
pigments for decorative cosmetics and personal care as well as functional
fillers for innovative products. Along with its parent
company, Merck KGaA, EMD has been at the forefront of such innovative
technology as multi layer interference pigments (Timiron®
Splendid pigments), color-travel (Xirona® pigments
and pigments based on glass flake-technology(Ronastar®
pigments ).
Multi-layer technology has also been used to create green pigment
consisting of oxides of titanium, iron, and silicon, but without
chromium; all other cosmetically-acceptable inorganic pigments currently
on the market must use this heavy metal in order to get that shade.
Colorona®Brilliant
Green is an example of basic pigment technology applied
toward of new pigments for the cosmetic and personal care markets.
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